Karl Mayer Hits Back at Competitor Over Copycat Denim Dyeing Tech

The ITMA textile technology trade show in Milan this month saw tensions run high between denim technology innovators.

Shortly after the expo opened, warp knitting technology provider Karl Mayer Group reported a competitor, India’s Jupiter Comtex Pvt. Ltd., for copying its proprietary indigo dyeing unit and infringing upon its patent rights. An intellectual property rights (IPR) panel ruled in favor of Karl Mayer after hearing from both parties, and instructed Jupiter Comtex to cover its indigo dyeing equipment throughout the remainder of the trade show.

Such copycatting has become a common occurrence in the sector; a 2022 study conducted by VDMA, a European machinery and manufacturing equipment trade group, showed that around 72 percent of companies have been victims of product or brand piracy, incurring losses totaling more than 6 billion euros, or $6.55 billion.

The unit in question was developed for Karl Mayer’s Bluedye indigo dyeing machine. The German textile technology group’s Bluedye system uses less water and chemicals than conventional processes. The use of hydrosulphite and caustic soda, highly polluting compounds, can be reduced by more than half, the group said. The machinery cuts operating costs by 20 percent by curbing yarn waste. Testing and processing trials took place before the technology debuted at ITMA, and the first Bluedye system was put into operation this spring.

Karl Mayer and Lenzing Group, the cellulosic fiber company responsible for Tencel, also teamed up at ITMA to showcase a solution that allows for the incorporation of a higher percentage of Tencel lyocell fibers and filaments during textile production of warp and flat knits. The strategic partnership between the companies was announced at the show, with Florian Heubrandner, Lenzing VP of global textiles business describing it as a pivotal step in pushing the industry toward the adoption of bio-based and biodegradable materials, and achieving climate goals.

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